Learn what qualifies as a good refinance rate in 2026, how to evaluate rate offers, and when to lock in your rate.
"Is 6.25% a good rate?"
It depends.
Let me show you how to tell if you're getting a good deal.
30-year fixed conventional:
15-year fixed conventional:
FHA loans: Add 0.125-0.25% to conventional rates
VA loans: Subtract 0.125% from conventional rates
Jumbo loans (above $802,650): Add 0.25-0.75% to conventional rates
Broker's Tip: These are baseline rates for 80% LTV, primary residence, rate-and-term refinance. Your actual rate will vary based on your full profile.
A "good rate" isn't just about the number. It's about what you're saving compared to what you have now.
Your current rate: 7.5% Rate offer: 6.375% Is 6.375% good? Hell yes.
You're dropping 1.125%. On a $400,000 loan, that's $300/month savings ($108,000 over 30 years).
Lock it. Don't overthink it.
Your current rate: 5.0% Rate offer: 6.25% Is 6.25% good? No.
You're going UP in rate. Why would you refinance? (The only reason: cash-out refinance where you need the cash and accept the higher rate.)
Your current rate: 6.5% Rate offer: 6.25% Is 6.25% good? Maybe.
You're saving 0.25%, which is $60/month on a $400,000 loan.
If closing costs are $4,000, it takes 67 months (5.6 years) to break even.
Are you staying that long? If yes, refinance. If not, skip it.
A good rate is one that recovers your closing costs within 2-3 years.
Step 1: Get your monthly payment savings
Step 2: Divide closing costs by monthly savings
If you're staying 2.5+ years, it's a good rate. If you're selling in 18 months, it's not worth it.
Use our break-even calculator to run your numbers.
Broker's Tip: I tell clients to aim for a 24-month break-even or less. Anything longer is risky (you might move, rates might drop further, life happens).
Mortgage rate history:
Context: Today's rates (6.0-6.5%) are below the long-term average. They're not the rock-bottom 2020 rates, but they're not terrible either.
If you have a rate above 7%, refinancing makes sense.
If you have a rate below 5.5%, you're probably better off keeping it (unless you need cash-out).
Your credit score determines your rate tier.
Is your rate "good"? Compare to these benchmarks:
| Credit Score | Expected 30-Year Fixed Rate (80% LTV) | What's "Good" | |--------------|---------------------------------------|---------------| | 760+ | 6.00-6.25% | Anything under 6.125% | | 740-759 | 6.25-6.50% | Anything under 6.375% | | 720-739 | 6.50-6.75% | Anything under 6.625% | | 700-719 | 6.75-7.00% | Anything under 6.875% | | 680-699 | 7.00-7.25% | Anything under 7.125% | | 660-679 | 7.25-7.625% | Anything under 7.50% | | 640-659 | 7.625-8.00% | Anything under 7.75% |
If you're getting a rate 0.25% BELOW your expected tier, you're doing well.
If you're getting a rate 0.25% ABOVE your tier, shop other lenders. You're being overcharged.
Broker's Tip: Always ask lenders, "What credit score tier am I in?" If they quote you a 6.75% rate and you have a 760 score, something's wrong. Push back.
LTV (loan-to-value) = Loan Amount ÷ Home Value
The less you borrow (relative to your home's value), the better your rate.
Rate adjustments by LTV:
| LTV | Rate Adjustment | Example (on 6.25% base rate) | |-----|-----------------|------------------------------| | ≤ 80% | No adjustment | 6.25% | | 80-85% | +0.25-0.50% | 6.50-6.75% | | 85-90% | +0.50-0.75% | 6.75-7.00% | | 90-95% | +0.75-1.25% | 7.00-7.50% | | 95-97% | +1.25-1.75% | 7.50-8.00% |
If you're at 82% LTV and getting quoted 6.75%, that's in line with market pricing.
If you're at 75% LTV and getting quoted 6.75%, you're being overcharged. Shop around.
Different loan types have different rate ranges.
Don't compare:
FHA rates are typically 0.125-0.25% higher than conventional (but FHA allows lower credit scores).
If you have a 680 score:
FHA might actually be cheaper for you (even though FHA rates are generally higher, the credit score impact is less).
ARMs start 0.75-1% lower than 30-year fixed.
March 2026:
Is 5.50% on a 7/1 ARM "good"? Compare it to other ARM offers, not fixed rates.
15-year fixed rates are typically 0.5-0.75% lower than 30-year.
March 2026:
Is 5.75% a good rate for a 15-year? That's slightly high (should be closer to 5.625%). Shop around.
Lock your rate if:
Wait if:
Most of the time, I tell clients: lock within 3 days of applying. Trying to perfectly time the market is a fool's errand.
See our rate lock guide.
Broker's Tip: If you're nervous about locking, ask about a "float down" option. You lock now, but if rates drop 0.25%+ before closing, you get the lower rate. Costs 0.125% extra, but worth it for peace of mind.
Lender A: 6.00% rate, $8,000 in fees Lender B: 6.25% rate, $3,000 in fees
Which is better? Run the break-even.
On a $400,000 loan, Lender A saves you $60/month. But you're paying $5,000 more upfront.
Break-even: 83 months (7 years)
Unless you're staying 10+ years, Lender B is the better deal.
Always compare APR (annual percentage rate), which includes fees. A 6.00% rate with 2 points has a higher APR than a 6.125% rate with zero points.
"Get 5.0% today!" (fine print: 5/1 ARM)
ARMs are fine if you understand them. But if you think you're getting a 30-year fixed at 5.0% and you're actually getting an ARM that adjusts after 5 years, you're in for a rude awakening.
Always ask: Is this fixed or adjustable?
Lender: "Zero closing costs!" Rate: 7.25% (when market rate for your profile is 6.375%)
You're paying for those closing costs through a rate that's 0.875% higher. That costs you $210/month on a $400,000 loan.
No-cost refi makes sense IF the rate is reasonable. See our no-cost refinance guide.
Q: Should I refinance if I'm only saving 0.375%?
On a $400,000 loan, 0.375% saves you $90/month. If closing costs are $4,500, break-even is 50 months (4.2 years). If you're staying that long, yes.
Q: Is it worth refinancing if I'm selling in 2 years?
Probably not. Unless your monthly savings are massive (enough to recover closing costs in 24 months), skip it.
Q: Can I get a better rate if I wait 6 months?
Maybe. But rates could also go UP. If you're saving $200+/month today, refinance today. Don't gamble on future rate drops.
Q: What if I refinanced last year and rates dropped again?
You can refinance as many times as you want. If the math works (break-even under 3 years), do it again.
Q: Are online lenders cheaper than traditional banks?
Sometimes. Online lenders (Rocket, Better.com) have lower overhead, so they can offer better rates. But shop around — sometimes local brokers beat them.
Want to know if you're getting a good rate? Get personalized quotes and I'll tell you:
Compare your refinance options →
I'm a California licensed mortgage broker with 15+ years experience (DRE #01212512). I'll show you what rate you SHOULD be getting and where to find it.
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Licensed mortgage broker with 15+ years of experience helping homeowners save money through refinancing. CA DRE #01212512.