Compare conventional and FHA refinance loans side-by-side. Learn which option costs less and when to switch from FHA to conventional.
Should you refinance to a conventional loan or stick with FHA?
Short answer: If you have 20% equity and decent credit, switch to conventional. You'll save thousands by dropping mortgage insurance.
Let me show you the math.
Conventional Loan:
FHA Loan:
The big difference that costs you money: FHA mortgage insurance never goes away. Conventional PMI drops off at 20% equity.
Let's say you have a $400,000 FHA loan.
FHA mortgage insurance costs:
You pay $183/month for the entire 30-year loan. That's $65,880 in total mortgage insurance costs.
Now let's look at conventional PMI:
Conventional PMI costs:
Total PMI paid: ~$14,400 (if it drops off after 6 years)
You save $51,480 by switching from FHA to conventional and letting PMI drop off.
That's why I tell almost every FHA borrower with equity: refinance to conventional and kill that mortgage insurance.
Broker's Tip: FHA loans originated BEFORE June 3, 2013 have mortgage insurance that drops off after 5 years or when you hit 78% LTV. If you have an old FHA loan, check your docs — you might already be eligible to drop MIP without refinancing.
Switch to conventional if:
You have 20%+ equity. This is the big one. Once you hit 20% equity, refinancing to conventional eliminates mortgage insurance entirely.
Your credit score is 680+. You'll qualify for the best conventional rates.
You plan to stay in the home 5+ years. Refinancing has costs ($3,000-$6,000). You need time to recover them.
Rates are close to what you have now. If rates jumped 2%, refinancing might not save you money even with MI removed.
Current FHA loan:
Refinance to conventional:
Monthly savings: $236 Annual savings: $2,832
Closing costs: $5,000 Break-even: 21 months
After less than 2 years, you're saving money. Over 30 years, you save $85,000+ in mortgage insurance.
Use our refinance calculator to run your numbers.
Keep your FHA loan if:
You have less than 20% equity. If you refinance to conventional with less than 20% equity, you'll STILL pay PMI. You might as well keep the FHA loan (unless you can get a much better rate).
Your credit score is below 680. Conventional rates get expensive with lower credit scores. FHA rates are more forgiving.
You're planning to move soon. If you're selling in 1-2 years, don't bother refinancing. Closing costs won't be worth it.
Rates have increased significantly. If you have an FHA loan at 5.5% and current rates are 7%, keep your low rate. The mortgage insurance savings won't offset the rate increase.
Current FHA loan:
Conventional refinance quote:
Verdict: STAY with FHA. Your rate is great (5.25%). Refinancing raises your rate AND you still pay mortgage insurance. Not worth it.
What to do instead: Wait until you hit 20% equity (home value appreciation or paying down principal), THEN refinance to conventional.
FHA and conventional loans have different credit pricing.
FHA:
Conventional:
If your credit score is 680+, conventional will almost always beat FHA.
If your credit score is 620-679, run the numbers. FHA might offer a better rate.
If your credit score is below 620, FHA is your only option.
Broker's Tip: If you're at 660 and climbing, wait until you hit 680 before applying for conventional. That extra 20 points can save you 0.5% on your rate.
2026 Conforming Loan Limits:
Most areas:
High-cost areas (e.g., San Francisco, LA, NYC):
If your loan amount exceeds the conventional limit, you need a jumbo loan (different rules, usually higher rates). See our jumbo refinance guide.
If your loan amount exceeds the FHA limit, you can't use FHA. You're stuck with conventional or jumbo.
If you currently have an FHA loan, you have two refinance options:
My recommendation: If you have less than 20% equity, use FHA Streamline to lower your rate. Once you hit 20% equity, refinance to conventional and kill the mortgage insurance.
See our FHA Streamline guide for details.
FHA:
Conventional:
What's DTI? Your total monthly debt payments (mortgage + car + credit cards + student loans) divided by your gross monthly income.
Example:
You'd qualify for both FHA and conventional.
If your DTI is 48%, you'd qualify for FHA but probably not conventional.
Broker's Tip: If you're right at the DTI limit, consider paying off a car or credit card before applying. Lowering your DTI by 2-3% can make or break your approval.
FHA:
Conventional:
Example:
Both FHA and conventional allow this. The difference is in qualifying: FHA is more forgiving if your credit took a hit.
See our cash-out refinance guide for details.
FHA allows:
Conventional allows:
If you're refinancing an investment property, you MUST use conventional (or a portfolio lender). FHA requires owner-occupancy.
See our investment property refinance guide.
FHA closing costs:
Conventional closing costs:
Conventional is usually cheaper upfront because there's no 1.75% upfront mortgage insurance fee.
FHA Refinance:
Conventional Refinance:
Winner: FHA (lower payment, and you're paying mortgage insurance either way)
FHA Refinance:
Conventional Refinance:
Winner: Conventional (save $222/month by eliminating mortgage insurance)
FHA Refinance:
Conventional Refinance:
Winner: FHA (barely — but FHA is more forgiving of credit issues)
Q: Can I refinance from FHA to conventional with the same lender?
Yes, but shop around. Your current lender has no obligation to give you the best rate. Get quotes from 3-5 lenders using our quote tool.
Q: How long do I have to wait after getting an FHA loan to refinance to conventional?
No waiting period for a rate-and-term refinance. For cash-out, most lenders require 12 months of payment history.
Q: Will I lose my low FHA rate if I refinance to conventional?
Yes. Refinancing means a new loan at current rates. If rates have gone up since you got your FHA loan, factor that into your decision.
Q: Can I refinance a conventional loan to FHA?
Yes, but why would you? FHA has mandatory mortgage insurance. The only reason to switch is if your credit tanked and you can't qualify for conventional rates.
Q: Do I need an appraisal to switch from FHA to conventional?
Yes. Conventional lenders require an appraisal to verify your equity and home value.
If you have 20%+ equity and 680+ credit: Refinance to conventional. Eliminate mortgage insurance. Save thousands.
If you have less than 20% equity: Wait. Build equity through payments or home appreciation, then refinance.
If your credit is below 680: Stick with FHA or work on your credit before switching.
Not sure? Let me run the numbers for your specific situation.
Get personalized rate quotes for both FHA and conventional refinance:
I'm a California licensed mortgage broker with 15+ years experience (DRE #01212512). I'll show you exactly which option saves you the most money.
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Licensed mortgage broker with 15+ years of experience helping homeowners save money through refinancing. CA DRE #01212512.